Do women make better designers than men? Pointing out how many women are being appointed creative directors at high-end labels -- think Alessandra Facchinetti at Valentino and Frida Giannini at Gucci -- WWD wonders if the ladies are finally in charge of dressing themselves. "In the early nineties, the creative directors of fashion houses were nearly all men," Floriane de Saint Pierre, an executive headhunter, told the mag. And of course you can't forget Miuccia and Donatella. A poll asking whether women make better designers than men (it stands at 58% in favor of the ladies right now) is still open, so weigh in.
It's out with Milan and in with Paris as fashion week wraps up in Italy and revs up in France. All the big boys (and girls) will be showing all next week, with heavy hitters such as Christian Dior and Yohji Yamamoto showing on Monday, Balenciaga and Viktor & Rolf on Tuesday, Valentino (his last ready-to-wear collection, sniff) and Lacroix on Wednesday, Stella McCartney and YSL on Thursday, Chanel and Alexander McQueen on Friday, Chloe and John Galliano on Saturday, and wrapping up the week on Sunday we have Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu (that's Prada, pictured), Nina Ricci and Lanvin. Whew.
Angelina Jolie may have just found the perfect way out of her agreement to star in ads for St. John's Knits. The actress's recent comments against the Iraq war may have ticked off stuffy St. John's -- a favorite of conservative politicos and their wives -- so much that they may break Jolie's multi-million-dollar contract. It's just a rumor for now, but in the meantime, check out the new snaps of -- perhaps? -- her last ad campaign with the label. [via Celebrity Cowboy]
Ladies, how lovely to see you again! Looks like costume genius Patricia Field is working her usual magic on the set of the "Sex and the City" movie, currently filming all around NYC. She's already put Carrie in wild green prints and a giant white flower, and Mr. Big in a smokin' brown suit. Equally famous for her missteps, Field forced the girls' Oscar-winning co-star, Jennifer Hudson, into this hideous get-up. Is it too early to get tickets?
It's no life-or-death choice, but which metallic ballet flat would you pick -- Dolce & Gabbana or Prada? Dolce's are cute, with PVC peekaboo cutouts, while Prada's are squishy enough to be tucked into your purse for when those platforms give you corns.
Some would argue that 'premium denim' was over by the time Seven Jeans and True Religion ended up in a pop song, but chichi dungarees lines continue to sprout, including year-old Bread Denim. Bread's $200 jeans tout the usual bragging rights -- distressed by hand; available at Bloomies and Fred Segal -- but what's more interesting is that they're proudly made in downtown L.A. Given that hipster chain American Apparel markets the exact same ethos, are we witnessing the birth of a patriotic fashion movement?
Related Links: Are cute jeans about to become the new locally grown produce?
Ever feel like you could use a little extra storage space in the old noggin? This spring 2008 Versace handbag could be just the thing for dragging around extra memory, since it's got almost the same texture, shape and color as the human brain.
Skootch over Sports Illustrated, America's premier queer femme swimsuit calendar is about to hit the shelves and it's gonna land hard. Twelve foxy Brooklyn femmes with frightening physiques vamp on the beach at Coney Island in hot swimsuits by local designers in this year's edition of the I Heart Brooklyn Girls calendar. Brooklyn-born photographer Erica Beckman told us she launched the calendar two years ago on a lark. "I like girls. I like girls in bathing suits. Why not photograph them?" Could this be the year of the un-airbrushed outie?
Fall trends are catching on are starting to emerge on the streets of NY in force. These are our favorites:
1. Military-style hoodies exude more style than the tired old college sweatshirts. They make great layering piece once the weather gets chilly.
2. Printed scarves are big, so start stocking up on fun patterns.
3. The funnel neck coat has been a favorite for several seasons and
we don't see that going away any time soon.
4. Plaid... it was all over the runway and now it's invading our
closet.
5. Patent leather is making a major debut this fall, but be careful -- too much can look more streetwalker than street chic.
6. Printed hoodies are also big, mainly in fluorescent colors with big bold patterns.
7. Love Mary Janes! Part of the evolution of the ever popular ballet flat.
8. This trend is a little harder to pull off -- thigh high tights and
socks, but it looks great on the runway, so why not on you?
Models who stomp down the runway seem to be the very same models who get mad attention from editorials, ad campaigns and plenty of prominent runway time. See the pros Caroline Trentini, Carmen Kass, Mariacarla Boscono and Chanel Iman walk the walk down the Dolce & Gabbana runway (pictured above, or you can watch the video here) and you'll see what I mean. Of course Raquel Zimmerman and Jessica Stam make an impression with their cool sauntering rather than charging and clomping.
Hot off the runways, Fendi's spring 2008 collection. Decorative concentric circles applied over sheers, as graphics and thrown over each other in layers are right on target. Almost makes me dizzy. [via The Fashion Spot, photos courtesy Getty Images]
Does it take confidence to carry accessories that look like they belong to a bag lady? Not when you've got a giant Louis Vuitton logo stamped on the side, and you can bet Kelly Osbourne isn't rocking a knockoff. High fashion as Ms. Osbourne might be with her ironic LV carryall and admittedly cool blouse (anyone know who designed that? -- I'm drawing a blank), it's not the best combo I've seen.
Gorgeous, rich illustrations have been popping up on dresses for spring 2008, lending a one-of-kind couture feel to several collections, notably Roberto Cavalli, Paola Frani, Prada and Moschino Cheap&Chic.
Bold graphics made the biggest mark on Gucci's spring 2008 collection. We loved the hot prints, especially the big flowers paired with psychedelic black and white graphics. The International Herald Tribune has some sharp words for the label's creative director, Frida Giannini: "'Thank heaven for Gucci' will surely be the rallying cry from Victoria Beckham, Paris Hilton and other 'It' girls for whom bubble gum pink is sweet as candy." [via Style.it]
Do yourself a favor and check out the imagined conversation between -- really a one-act play -- starring Roberto Cavalli and Tara Reid on Go Fug Yourself. A sample -- Cavalli: "I can see it: Fetus hats, RESPLENDENT in my fall 2008 collection. Vests made of diapers. God, it's divine. WHERE is my moisturizer?...I'll send you a pair of embryo pumps from next season."
The last batch of Valentino ads produced under the designer's name are all up on Fabsugar, with the label's trademark red gowns worn by Gemma Ward, Daria Werbowy and Hilary Rhoda lit by noir-ish light peeking through blinds.
Here's another look that's making its way across the spring 2008 runways -- wearing a belt over a sweater or jacket, styled here in the collections of Marni, Burberry, Etro and Armand Basi. But beware, says Fashionista, who first spotted the trend on the Proenza Schouler runway -- this look is harder to pull off than you might think. Try it at home first with advice from their readers.
Have you ever wondered why Pringle of Scotland shows its collection in Milan? Or why Temperley (formerly Temperley London) shows in New York? As fashion weeks grow increasingly globalized, we wonder if the trend for designers to leave their home countries will reverse, especially now that London fashion week has heated up so much. "When you think of Paris you think of Karl Lagerfeld who is not French," Tom Ford told the Independent (U.K.), "And you think of Marc Jacobs who's not French and Stefano Pilati who's Italian." Will Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen return to their homeland next year? Probably not. Being from someplace else will always be more exotic than just being at home.
The usual array of blobby shifts, built-in chunky jewelry and blocky shoes characterized the latest spring collection from Marni. We especially loved the hats, which look like a cross between old-lady swimming caps and Devo's iconic headgear.
Prada dresses hot off the Milan spring 2008 runways. We love the ladylike dresses, the mix of patterns, the raccoon eyes, and the insanely good shoes, of course. [via Style.it]
In the same vein as Benetton's iconic photos of a dying AIDS patient, Italian brand Nolita is using a photo of a nude anorexic woman to sell clothes. It's a pretty raw tactic, and a ridiculous one to use during Milan fashion week, where plenty of models are still displaying stick-thin thighs and bony ribs, despite all the hand-wringing over size zero models. [via Reuters]
There's a new Versace in town, this time it's Gianni and Donatella's niece Francesca, who's got the family fashion bug (unlike Donatella's own kids). She's got the name, but is not leaning on it too much, presenting her first collection, called All Dressed Up, as Francesca V during Paris fashion week. [via Vogue.com]
More than one designer in Milan has caught boogie fever, with mirrored accents on skirts (Missoni), tops (Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti) and dresses (Roccobarocco) that remind us of disco balls. [photos courtesy Style.it]
The spring 2008 collection by Raf Simons for Jil Sander was filled with the label's trademark minimalist tailored dressed up with clouds of tulle and sexy disappearing sheers in unexpected places. It was a welcome bit of femininity for Jil Sander, where the severe tailoring and limited color palette sometimes make the clothes look a little too much like Dress Barn separates.
Christopher Bailey continues his total domination of the belted trench coat, making more coveted coats than any designer should be allowed, this time for Burberry's spring 2008 collection. This time he topped it off with more than a handful of gorgeous dresses with criss-crossed ruffles and the only sighting of the dreaded Burberry checked plaid was so pop and oversized that it really didn't matter. I guess they're leaving that to the brand's loyalists, umbrellas and knockoff handbags.
There was some focus on fringe in the Milan spring 2008 collections. Krizia and Just Cavalli took a full-frontal showgirl-style approach, while Giorgio Armani and Burberry limited themselves to fringe-y decorations. [images courtesy Style.it and Yahoo!]
The watchdog site Disgrasian Nation is right in so many ways -- calling out bad media stereotypes, promoting Asians done good, posting weird photos of Kelly Osbourne with chopsticks. Bloggers Jen and Diana take particular umbrage with Gwen Stefani's Harajuku Girl exploitation (And Gwen, honestly, you're better than that.) Check out their Disgrasian line of t-shirts with sayings like "Free the Harajuku Girls" and our favorite,"Love.Angel.Music.Slavery."
He's been out of fashion for so long it's easier to associate the name Todd Oldham with La-Z-Boy recliners and Target housewares (and fruit baskets?) than actual clothing. But Oldham is getting back in the game, this time as creative director of Old Navy. His quirky sensibility seems like a good fit for the Gap-owned company, and, as liashoes commented on The Fashion Spot, "Perhaps Old Navy can become New Navy."
While you were not in Milan, the spring collections were going mad. Here's a few looks from Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (no relation), C'N'C Costume National, Krizia, Alessandro De Bendetti, and best of all so far, Francesco Scognamiglio (if you're overwhelmed by too many links, at least check out Scognamiglio's collection). And you won't believe this one look from D&G -- would you ever be caught dead in these shorts? [via Style.it]
The normally white-blonde model Agyness Deyn has changed her hair color yet again, this time going black for Armani's spring 2008 collection in Milan, far left, carrot-topped for Giles in London, and two shades of pink for Anna Sui in New York. What colors will Paris bring? Is Agyness still Agyness without her signature cut and color?
Styles come and go so fast, what's a gal to do if she still likes leggings (horrors!) or skinny jeans (so last season)? Go ahead and call 'em something else -- treggings, for super-skinny but light trousers -- and keep on going. [via Style File]
We made fun of Paula Abdul's bra-baring dress from the Emmys, but she's looking more and more trendsetting as days go own. Witness the asymmetrical necklines from Alessandro Dell'Acqua and Luciano Soprani's respective spring collections from Milan over the weekend, Reese Witherspoon's Nina Ricci dress on the October cover of Elle, and last, but not least, Nicole Kidman's total undergarment exposure on the cover of Vanity Fair.
Gray and purple are big colors for fall, so which do you want more? We've got a cute gray dress by Tart lined up against a violet shift by Twelfth St. by Cynthia Vincent.
Thought you were tired of fashion week? Too bad. Milan fashion week starts tomorrow, with spring 2008 runway shows from Burberry, Prada, Gucci, Fendi and Versace filling up the rest of next week. What trend will Prada start that everyone else will copy for the next two years? How many slashed-to-the-thigh gowns will Versace show? Will Frida Giannini ever fill Tom Ford's shoes at Gucci? How many different animal prints will be featured on Cavalli's runway? Burning questions we will soon have answers to. And then we'll have Paris. And then it will be over, I swear.
Are cheap knockoffs good for fashion? Yes, says James Surowiecki in the pages of the New Yorker's style issue, where he argues against the kind of copyright protection the CDFA has been clamoring for. Not only do knockoffs make trends and styles obsolete faster (making us want, say, spring 2008 fashions just as fall 2007 is hitting the shelves), but it also makes us covet the good stuff from the real fashion houses all the more, when we can someday afford it. Until then, keep hitting Zara and H&M.
Proving that she really can design on her feet, Kate Moss made the best of a bad situation after Courtney Love (accidentally?) stomped on Kate's vintage floor-length Dior gown by gathering it up and tying it into a miniskirt. "I can't help but think that if I tried the same creative clothing disaster recovery scheme I'd be laughed out of the building," commented Stiletto Jungle on Fashionista. While you're in a Kate mood, check out some of her work as a photographer over at Fashionologie.
Gisele takes such good photos, it's hard for editors to decide on the best for the October cover of Vogue Paris. So what the hell, they gave her a fold-out. There's that D&G belt again... We should keep count of how many times those belts have appeared on magazine covers. [thanks to Alix of The Fashion Spot for scanning]
The Noki House of Sustainability (deigned by artist J.J. Hudson and part of the Far East showcase) showed a decidedly "Mad-Max"-esque collection on the final day of London Fashion Week, featuring shredded concert tees, piles of wigs and reused fabrics. We appreciate the dust masks, as we're pretty sure the air of the future won't be fit for breathing.
Thanks to Home Ec, a new sewing studio that the designers of the Brooklyn-based Flirt label recently opened in booming Gowanus, everyone in New York can learn how to make the perfect skirt. The large studio equipped with vintage sewing machines and supplies hosts a schedule of project-driven sewing classes that make it a weekly destination for paradigms of perfection and connoisseurs of custom-fit from all over the city. Sound dubious? "We’ve mapped the classes out pretty well," assures co-owner Seryn Potter. "It pretty much prohibits any disasters."
Related Links: The perfect skirt demands the perfect shoe.
After enjoying and actually respecting Petra Nemcova's "A Model Life" on TLC over the summer, last night's silly kickoff of "Top Model" on a cruise ship seemed an especially egregious exercise in stupidity. Yet somehow at the end, Miss Tyra -- looking quite slim and fit these days -- managed to engage me again with some of her final picks for the top 13: a sweet-faced exotic dancer from Jersey; a not-quite-Plus-Size beauty; and an openly nerdy fashion newbie from Yale. Hey, speaking of college, test your ANTM knowledge with this frivolous quiz!
Striking the perfect note between hot and weird, Serbian-born, London-based designer Roksanda Ilincic sent some pretty gorgeous stuff down the runway for spring 2008, satin dresses that would have pleased Mae West finished with modern touches. But just to let you know she's not all about wearable, she threw in this bolero jacket big enough for a linebacker.
Fashion trade mag Women's Wear Daily is not really known for gazing reflectively upon the fashion industry in general, but today they've got a poll up asking whether or not making a profit ruins fashion's artistic streak. It's a question worth asking, but an article in today's New York Times argues that money has not spoiled London Fashion Week -- in fact, an influx of cash has made it better, allowing designers more creativity. Of course we'll wait and see how those same hot British designers, such as Giles Deacon (his dress, pictured), are doing in a few years. Being in the black may not seem like a stylish concern -- business-wise, anyway -- but it does mean you can do more than when a fashion line is operating in the red. [photo via the New York Times]
Every morning it's a struggle to come up with a creative, cool outfit without relying on the same tried-and-true pieces. We took our favorite pair of Earnest Sewn gray jeans and created seven stunning looks using both basic and funky pieces. Outfit number five is great for a night out while outfit number one is befitting for a meeting with the boss... Tell us what you think!
The current issue of Esquire tackles a question many fashionable men might have been wondering: can I actually get away with wearing a Thom Browne suit? An enterprising writer, armed with $4,000, gets fitted and strolls around Manhattan, ankles exposed, with truly interesting results. Considering that the controversial Brown suits do have a distinct charm, it would have been a wee bit more interesting to see what would happen had the writer worn one of the designer's shorts combos or runway creations out on the streets. Would he be committed?
Related Links:A suit that won't get construction workers laughing.
The accessories designer over at Zara must be pretty embarrassed after a certain handbag design was pulled because it featured a swastika in the fabric, along with flowers, animals and bicycles. Um, one of these things is not like the other? [via BBC]
The long lead-up to Roberto Cavalli's collection for H&M has begun, with pre-released images from his ad campaign shot by Terry Richardson, sneak peeks from AnnieNYC via Elle UK, and wry commentary from Fashionista, where they're not surprised by the amount of leopard print in the collection. On the bright side, remember that pleated bronze dress Kate Hudson wore a few years back? They're remaking that at H&M prices (see the red-haired model in pic), so get in early when the collection launches November 8.
I'll admit it, London Fashion Week doesn't usually float my boat. It's smaller than New York and not as glam and wild as Paris, but this year London is kicking New York's butt in terms of creativity and daring styles. Peep the collections of Stinha-Stanic, two images at left, and Marios Schwab, two right images, and you'll see what I mean. [photos courtesy Style.com]
Would you take advice on looking skinnier in your clothes from Mary-Kate Olsen? "With these leather pants, the edges are rolled so you won't get love handles," Mary-Kate told the select crowd at the St. Regis Hotel, where the twins personally showed their spring 2008 collection for The Row. Ilovepositano of The Fashion Spot found it funny to take slimming advice from the previously anorexic mini-star: "I'm like, 'How do you know about love handles!?'"
Related Links: Most pieces from The Row are long, sheer and black.
Luella Bartley's spring 2008 collection featured retro-cute dresses, bat accents, and giant nerd glasses all of which remind us of Daniel Clowes's first-comic book, then-movie "Ghost World."
Torn jeans, snakeskin, ruffled and tiered off-the-shoulder dresses, midriff-baring sweatshirts -- are we revisiting the heavy metal years? British designer Christopher Kane enjoyed recreating a hesher-80s groupie collection for spring 2008 London Fashion Week. The only things missing were big hair and tattered Def Leppard tees.
Related Links: All you need is a teasing comb and these.
Kara N., age 19, was looking très chic on her way to her French class at the University of Minnesota. Kara, a journalism major, is a sophomore at the University; she makes the most of her fashion by finding fabulous deals. Her Kenneth Cole dress was found for $15 at Macy’s and her peep toe BCBG flats were found at TJ Maxx. Top it off with a slouchy bag, dangly accessories, and oversized sunglasses and this simple dress is classic street fashion! Another familiar fashionista to street fashion is Kara's style icon, Carrie Bradshaw, mainly because "we have the same hair."
Much like Heidi Klum, Molly Simms is a model who looks fabulous whether on the runway or at the grocery store. Here's Molly at a pre-Emmy party looking casual yet chic. She sticks with the high-waisted wide leg jeans with a feminine pink shirt tucked in. It's a look to steal, so we did.
Here's yet another reason to not wear Crocs -- they just might kill you. Reports of the colorful, Swiss-cheese-style plastic clogs getting sucked into escalators are on the rise. One child nearly lost his foot: "His mother managed to yank him free," reported the Associated Press, "but the nail on his big toe was almost completely ripped off, causing heavy bleeding." Going to the hospital won't save you from Crocs, either -- they're planning a special line just for medical professionals. Word to the wise -- if you can't part with your Crocs, take the stairs. [via Radar]
You've gotta hand it to the folks at E!. Picking up on the fact that we're totally oversaturated with designer gown and jewelry shout-outs, they broke out the "Stiletto Cam" for last night's Emmys so we could find out what brand name shoes television's finest were wearing. "House" co-star Jennifer Morrison, pictured here, wore Brian Atwood's Mattie shoe. I guess we can expect an "Undie Cam" for the Oscars? Yay.
Related Links: We're head over heels with these designer shoes
See New York Fashion Week from the eyes of Oded Balilty, a Pulitzer prize-winning photographer for the Associated Press. He's usually known for his work covering the conflict between Israelis and Palestinians, but of course fashion week features its own kind of combat -- getting into shows, enduring days without eating and walking miles in stilettos. Don't miss checking out these hauntingly beautiful black and white shots.
Related Links: Dress like a classic photo in black and white.
Paula Abdul's problems are worse than we thought -- what is up with the dress she wore to the Emmys? Her one-boobed number was either a classy remake of Janet Jackson's infamous Super Bowl performance, or a yet another cry for help. Or perhaps both? Well, some people liked it. And the bra goes great with the free diamond-encrusted flatiron she picked up at a pre-Emmy gift suite. [photo courtesy Just Jared]
Ever wonder why your choices for best and worst dressed never seem to mesh with the powers that be over at E!? Oh well. Here are our picks for last night's Emmys broadcast. Best dressed: Mary Louise Parker, successfully squeezing herself into skintight scarlet Dolce and Gabbana; and Edie Falco, for just looking like she wasn't under stylist-lock-and-key for 4 hours. Worst dressed: Vanessa Williams and her Kevan Hall feather duster; Felicity Huffman, looking weirdly concave in a David Meister pink gown that draped down to her waist; Kate Walsh of "Private Practice," who had something incubating on the side of her head for a hairdo. Also, this hurts me too -- Kyra Sedgwick and that dowdy two-part Oscar de la Renta. What's happened to her lips?
While carnivalesque British designer Gareth Pugh, far left, usually takes the cake as the biggest freak at London Fashion Week, some newcomers, Louise Golden, second to left, especially, are coming on strong with wild and wacky looks that make New York fashion week look extra boring and tame in comparison. Other folks who got their freak on -- Armand Basi and Danielle Scutt.
See Tyra straighten out post-VMA Britney Spears with some tough love in this video, a mashup of a Tyra "Top Model" rant and Britney's tearful interview with Matt Lauer. If anyone can shape up poor Brit following her sad performance at the VMAs, it's Tyra. If Tyra can do it in time for the Emmys, we'd be really impressed.